Road Bike Set up + Tuning Instructions

Click here to scroll through Roadbike Solutions

Where

		When adjusting the compression and rebound adjusters, fork and shock, you turn them all the way in to full firm (that is zero), then count turns or clicks out for your setting.
		Warning Never use all the way in nor all the way out as a setting - this is dangerous.

To begin, use these guides for a static or in the garage test:

1st set spring sags (preload)
(see diagrams and instructions below) the most important one is with you on the bike. The spring can be set anywhere that produces the right result on the day (8mm - 15mm preload is preferred range but you can go further if it works).

Usual sag range Road:
Forks 25 - 35mm race bikes can be less than 25mm
Shocks 25 - 40mm race bikes variance again
These measurements assume travel range approx 110 - 130mm

2nd set the rebound
a bounce test will give you a close approximation.

Front: hold and keep the brake on push down hard at least half travel and watch how the bike rebounds, no bounce when it stops is o.k.
Rear: it's similar for the rear only look for a uniform rate of rebound without being too fast, you don't need the brakes on.

3rd set the compression last
it is difficult to feel compression settings without riding the bike, I would prefer them to be soft at the start

When you have satisfied yourself that the above static test is o.k. the next step is to set the damping range......

HOW
The next step is to set the range for the compression and rebound adjusters, you need to think differently here, initially you are looking for two wrong settings and this is the way to set your range. You need to find the maximum soft setting and the maximum firm setting.

If you use our first setting and for example this is soft (the first 'wrong' setting) the next step is to find the firm setting (the second 'wrong' setting) these two settings are to find your range. You now have two extreme settings that you don't want to use again but this method has taught you:

what too soft and too firm feel like, don't go back there
familiarity with the adjusters, what they do and what they feel like
where you should head to for your next change

Imagine this, if you hold up at eye level in your right hand the soft setting and then in your left hand do the same for the firm setting, somewhere in between is the right setting

The important thing to achieve is an estimate in between these two extremes, 80% correct for your baseline settings is an excellent result. From here you can begin to fine-tune your set-up

WHY

# 1. Springs
Check the preloads, check the sags (see diagrams below) And if they’re correct, the next two steps involve setting DAMPING. Damping is the use of oils and their properties to absorb the energy that would otherwise cause the springs to react uncontrollably when they bounce back. NEXT......

# 2. Rebound Damping
You can ignore compression settings at this stage. When you go over a bump, the spring compresses exerting some force pushing the tyre into the ground. When the bump doesn’t compress the spring any more, it rebounds. You must control the return rate of the spring first because the spring and rebound combination is what gives you stability. Use the above soft/hard and in-between setting method to find the 80% baseline setting. The NEXT step is…....

# 3. Compression Damping
When the spring and rebound settings make the bike stable, you can then progress to compression settings to control the feel of how you travel over bumps. Use the same soft/hard and in-between method to find the 80% baseline setting.

Isolating the functions of spring, rebound and compression will give you clear messages on where your settings should be. Test ride after each individual change to assess the effect before moving onto the next step.

This is the FIRST BIG STEP – fine-tuning begins after you do this. NEVER try to see how fast you can go without the bike being fully set-up. Progress slowly.

With Baseline settings you will then be able to fine-tune for settings to best suit the conditions on the day, e.g. hot, cold, wet, dry, changing from road use to track day use, increases/decreases in weight (pillion, luggage), and for Racers - changes in track used.

	Sag Test For Front
	Use a tape measure and/or cable tie, be sure not to bounce and push the tie down too far

	Fully extend the forks with the wheel off the ground and do not use a fork stand. Place a cable tie around fork leg, slide against the rubber dust scraper Lower the bike and then lift again to fully extended position. The first distance that the cable tie has moved on the fork is Bike Sag (note forks can be sticky so don't worry about slightly different readings) Get on bike with both feet on pegs in the normal riding position (get help or elbow the wall ). The second distance the cable tie has moved is Rider Sag Front Rider Sag Range: 25-40mm 25% of travel

	n.b. Bike sag is very dependent on fork condition - if you wish to use bike sag, please advise us of your final sag reading and we can discuss details 03 9574 1164
	Sag Test For Rear:
	Use a tape measure, be sure not to bounce.

	Fully extend the rear suspension with the wheel off the ground. Do not use a swingarm stand. Measure vertically up from the rear axle to a convenient point on the bodywork or use masking tape. This is your fully extended measurement Lower bike with wheel on ground. Measure to the same mark. The reduced distance is Bike Sag #1 minus #2 Get on bike in the normal riding position with both feet on pegs (get help and also elbow the wall ) and measure to the same mark. The final reduced distance is Rider Sag #1 minus #3 Rear Rider Sag Range: 25-40mm or approx 33% of travel for a soft setting Rear Bike Sag Range: 5-15mm

	Top of page

Postscript: This article was originally written for our customers' use and reference. Adjusters are there for adjustments to be made to suit different applications e.g street versus competition. A setting for solo street riding which works perfectly, gripping in the wet etc, will not suffice when used in a race scenario where late, hard, heavy braking is called for and quick acceleration out of corners. Much firmer settings are required for race track use; it has to be when you are using the suspension much more vigorously. To get a very broad range of damping control we individualise the set-up to the person, bike, and type of riding planned. The wider range means that the overall set-up will be at a slightly less high level and the adjusters must always be used if you want to achieve the very best compromise for a particular type of riding.

This article is now read and used by many others - but there is a need to understand that if your bike is not set up correctly for you in the first place, i.e. all major damping elements are not addressed (of which you are one), attempts to fine-tune with adjusters will prove to be frustrating. So if in using this method your bike fails the tests or the clickers don't help, then your bike is telling you that the major damping elements need to be looked at.

p Roadbike Solutions

Mon - Fri: 8:30am - 5:30pm Saturday: 9:00am - 12:00pm	44 Westall Road Springvale Victoria 3171 Melbourne Australia	Telephone: 03 9574 1164 Mobile: 0438 692 750