Where do you start when a new suspension adjuster setting is needed?  The following method will give you the "first big step" in getting to a baseline setting.  From here you can begin to fine tune set-up.   pRoad Bike Solutions
  To begin, use these guides for a static or in the garage test:  
     
 

1st  set spring sags (preload)
(see diagrams and instructions below) the most important one is with you on the bike. The spring can be set anywhere that produces the right result on the day (8mm - 15mm preload is preferred range but you can go further if it works). N.b. Bike sag is very dependent on fork condition - if you wish to use bike sag, please advise us of your final sag reading and we can discuss details 03 9574 1164

  
   
  Use a tape measure and/or cable tie, be sure not to bounce and push the tie down too far  
  Fully Extended Bike Sag Rider Sag  
 
  • Fully extend the forks with the wheel off the ground and do not use a fork stand. Place a cable tie around fork leg, slide against the rubber dust scraper
  • Lower the bike and then lift again to fully extended position. The first distance that the cable tie has moved on the fork is Bike Sag
  • Get on bike with both feet on pegs in the normal riding position (get help or elbow the wall ). The second distance the cable tie has moved is Rider Sag
  
   
    (note forks can be sticky so don't worry about slightly different readings)
     
    Front Rider Sag Range:
    25% of travel   25 - 35mm
    race bikes can be less than 25mm
     
  
   
 

Use a tape measure, be sure not to bounce.
 
  Fully Extended Bike Sag Rider Sag  
 
  • Fully extend the rear suspension with the wheel off the ground. Do not use a swingarm stand. Measure vertically up from the rear axle to a convenient point on the bodywork or use masking tape. This is your fully extended measurement

    •  

     
  • Lower bike with wheel on ground. Measure to the same mark.
    The reduced distance is
    Bike Sag #1 minus #2
     
  • Get on bike in the normal riding position with both feet on pegs (get help and also elbow the wall) and measure to the same mark. The final reduced distance is Rider Sag #1 minus #3
 
 
    Rear Bike Sag Range: 5-15mm
    race bikes variance again
     
     
    Rear Rider Sag Range:
    25-40mm or approx 33% of travel for a soft setting
     
  
   
  2nd  set the rebound
a bounce test will give you a close approximation.		  
  Front:  hold and keep the brake on push down hard at least half travel and watch how the bike rebounds, no bounce when it stops is o.k.
Rear:  it's similar for the rear only look for a uniform rate of rebound without being too fast, you don't need the brakes on.		  
     
  3rd  set the compression last
it is difficult to feel compression settings without riding the bike, I would prefer them to be soft at the start		  
   
  WHEN
you have satisfied yourself that the above static tests are o.k. the next step is to set the damping range. * Warning *  Never use all the way in nor all the way out as a setting - this is dangerous. When adjusting the compression and rebound adjusters, fork and shock, you turn them all the way in to full firm (that is zero), then count turns or clicks out for your setting.		  
   
  HOW
The next step is to  set the range  for the compression and rebound adjusters, you need to think differently here, initially you are looking for two wrong settings and this is the way to set your range.  You need to find the maximum soft setting and the maximum firm setting.		  
     
  If you use our first setting and for example this is soft  (the first 'wrong' setting)  the next step is to find the firm setting  (the second 'wrong' setting)  these two settings are to find your range. You now have two extreme settings that you don't want to use again but this method has taught you:  
 
  • what too soft and too firm feel like, don't go back there
  • familiarity with the adjusters, what they do and what they feel like
  • where you should head to for your next change
  
     
  Imagine this, if you hold up at eye level in your right hand the soft setting and then in your left hand do the same for the firm setting, somewhere in between is the right setting. The important thing to achieve is an estimate in between these two extremes, 80% correct for your baseline settings is an excellent result.  From here you can begin to fine-tune your set-up  
 
  WHY
Isolating the functions of  spring, rebound and compression  will give you clear messages on where your settings should be. Test ride after each individual change to assess the effect before moving onto the next step.

    # 1.   Springs
    Check the preloads, check the sags (see diagrams above) And if they’re correct, the next two steps involve setting  DAMPING.  Damping is the use of oils and their properties to absorb the energy that would otherwise cause the springs to react uncontrollably when they bounce back. NEXT......

    # 2.   Rebound Damping
    You can ignore compression settings at this stage. When you go over a bump, the spring compresses exerting some force pushing the tyre into the ground. When the bump doesn’t compress the spring any more, it  rebounds. You must control the  return rate  of the spring first because the spring and rebound combination is what gives you stability. Use the above soft/hard and in-between setting method to find the 80% baseline setting. The NEXT step is…....

    # 3.   Compression Damping
    When the  spring  and rebound   settings make the bike stable, you can then progress to  compression  settings to control the feel of how you travel over bumps. Use the same soft/hard and in-between method to find the 80% baseline setting.

This is the FIRST BIG STEP – fine-tuning begins after you do this. NEVER try to see how fast you can go without the bike being fully set-up. Progress slowly. With Baseline settings you will then be able to fine-tune for settings to best suit the conditions on the day, e.g. hot, cold, wet, dry, and changes in terrain and track used.		  
     
 
  Tuning System Overview:  
 
    suspension  Bike body and Rider are "suspended" between two oscillatory systems (i.e. both ends bounce)
    system  A "system" is a set of independent but interactive elements that form a unified whole
    damping  is any effect that reduces the amplitude of oscillations in the system (adjusters fine-tune the system)
    damping elements  include spring rate, suspended weight, hydraulics, geometry, internals, design
    springs  support the weight of bike and Rider, store and release energy
    spring purpose  is to compress almost fully and return to free length without change to its initial properties
    sag test  will give an indication whether or not spring rates are suited to the suspended weight
    bounce test  indicates whether compression and rebound damping is operating effectively with bike weight
    preload  spring is compressed with a load before any suspended load is added; it makes the bike sit higher or lower
    rebound  controls return rate of spring; the spring and rebound combination is what gives stability
    compression  After spring and rebound settings make the bike stable, compression settings control travel over bumps
    adjusters  when major damping elements are unbalanced, fine tuning will not compensate for system problems
  
     
 
 

Postscript: This article was originally written for our customers' use and reference. Adjusters are there for adjustments to be made to suit different applications e.g street versus competition. A setting for solo street riding which works perfectly, gripping in the wet etc, will not suffice when used in a race scenario where late, hard, heavy braking is called for and quick acceleration out of corners. Much firmer settings are required for race track use; it has to be when you are using the suspension much more vigorously. A touring bike has to compromise its settings for a variety of road surface irregularities but always on a sealed road. To get a broad range of damping control we individualise the set-up to the person, bike, and type of riding planned. The broader range means that the overall set-up will be at a slightly less high level and the adjusters must always be used if you want to achieve the very best compromise for a particular type of riding.

This article is now read and used by many others - but there is a need to understand that if your bike is not set up correctly for you in the first place, i.e. all major damping elements are not addressed (of which you are one) attempts to fine-tune with adjusters will prove to be frustrating. So if in using this method your bike fails the tests or the clickers don't help, then your bike is telling you that the major damping elements need to be looked at.

  
     
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